Why I Invest in Professional Mountain Guides

The Evolution Traverse

After more than fifty years of climbing, one of the best investments I still make each season is hiring professional mountain guides.

People are often surprised by that. The assumption is usually that guides are for beginners, or for people who aren't capable of climbing on their own.

My experience has been exactly the opposite.

Reliability

One of the biggest reasons I hire professional guides has nothing to do with technical ability.

It's reliability.

Every January, I sit down and map out my climbing season. I choose the routes I want to climb, reserve the dates, and build the rest of my training around those objectives. Months of training ultimately come down to just a handful of days on the calendar.

When I hire a guide, I know that on that date, they'll show up prepared and committed to giving the climb every reasonable chance of succeeding.

I've spent decades climbing with partners, and while many of them have been outstanding, life has a way of interfering with even the best intentions. A child gets sick. Work gets in the way. Family obligations come first. Before you know it, the one day you've trained toward for months disappears.

I've had that happen enough times that I finally realized I wasn't just paying for technical expertise.

I was paying for commitment.

When that day arrives, I know I'll have the best possible chance to climb the route I've spent months preparing for.

An Outstanding Climbing Partner

The second reason is simple: the quality of the guides themselves.

Every certified mountain guide I've climbed with has been an exceptional professional. From Mount Rainier to classic Sierra routes, and now to my projects in Rocky Mountain National Park, I've been consistently impressed by their fitness, technical ability, judgment, and enthusiasm.

They move efficiently, solve problems calmly, and make good decisions almost without appearing to think about them. Just as importantly, they genuinely enjoy being in the mountains, and that attitude makes the entire day better.

The best way I can describe it is this: hiring a great guide is like climbing with the best climbing partner you've ever had—except they're doing it day after day, year after year, as their profession.

Never Stop Learning

The greatest benefit, though, may be the opportunity to learn.

After more than fifty years of climbing, it's a real privilege to share a rope with someone whose technical skills are on another level. I learn something every time I do.

Professional mountain guides have devoted their careers to mastering this craft. They've spent thousands of days on rock, snow, and ice, refining the countless details that make climbing look effortless.

I pay close attention to those details.

I watch how they move through technical terrain, how they place protection, how they build anchors, how they manage rope systems, how they read weather, and how they make decisions. I'm interested not only in what they do, but why they do it.

Sometimes I learn a new technique. Sometimes it's a small adjustment that makes a familiar task more efficient. Sometimes it's simply watching an experienced professional solve a problem with calm confidence.

Every guide I've climbed with has taught me something.

To me, hiring a guide isn't an expense. It's an investment—an investment in becoming a better climber.

After more than fifty years in the mountains, I still consider myself a student.